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June 14-15, 2008
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Butterflies

Frequently on Backroads we explore big open spaces and urban settings alike.  But we’ve never before gone to those places specifically to search for butterflies.

Art Shapiro is about to change that.  Art is a professor of evolution and ecology at UC Davis and one of the world’s leading butterfly experts.

“It’s absolutely incredible to me that anybody would pay me to do what I do,” he exclaims.

Art has been recording data on local butterflies for nearly four decades and he’s written a guide to identifying butterflies in the Bay Area and the Sacramento Valley.

“There is no other place in North America that has this much topographic, climatic, vegetational diversity in such a small area as the ten Bay Area counties,” he says.

Art is taking us on sort of a butterfly tour to three vastly different parts of the East Bay.

According to Art, “You can find some butterfly species in almost any open space in our area.”

We start our search at Sibley Volcanic Regional Preserve, in the Oakland hills.  It’s part of the East Bay Regional Park District, and it features the remains of a ten million year-old volcano, a labyrinth and some good butterfly habitat.

At first, it’s pretty quiet.  But soon, Art begins spotting the flying insects.  And he deftly catches one, a male Ox-eyed Satyr.

Art describes this species as “locally common in grassland in the Bay Area, usually near water.  This is actually a drier site than I’m used to seeing them.”  He adds, “Usually you’ll see them bobbing up and down, with a very strange flight motion.  Up and down, up and down, up and down!  It’s almost annoying to watch.” 

Nearly 120 species of butterfly are found in the Bay Area.  They’re attracted to different kinds of host plants and they have some ingenious strategies for survival.

Art shows me a beautifully colored butterfly called the Chalcedon Checkerspot. 

He explains, “Now this is warning coloration.  This is an advertisement to predators: I taste bad.  Do not eat me.”  Art says the warning comes from “the combination of black, red and pale yellow or white.”

The Chalcedon Checkerspot tastes bad because of what it eats, which I find out when Art has me taste a plant similar to the Chalcedon’s host plant.

Most of the butterflies we’re seeing live their entire life cycles in the same general area.  But there are some species, such as the California Tortoiseshell, that embark on tremendous migrations. 

On a separate trip, our camera caught a spectacular emergence of tortoiseshells on Inverness Ridge, in west Marin County.  These butterflies will fly to a faraway mountain range to breed.  Their offspring will somehow navigate back to the coast, where they’ll breed, and the next generation will start the process all over again.

“They’re notorious for not breeding in the same spot two years in a row,” says Art.  “One interpretation is that they are driving their natural enemies nuts.  That is, there is no way that their enemies can track them if they’re in a different place every season.”

Meanwhile, at Sibley, every time we start to leave an area, we see more butterflies.

“Well this is like the law of so-called Cybernetic Entomology,” quips Art.  “This means there is always another bug.”

In fact, as we’re heading out, we stumble upon the greatest concentration of butterflies so far.  They’re taking nectar from a plant called teasel.

Art explains, “This, of course, is a plant that’s introduced.  It’s only been in North America since the 1700’s.”  Before that, he says, “they would have nectared on some native plant or other which may not be here anymore.”

Eventually, we make it to our second stop, Eastshore State Park, near the Berkeley Marina.  It used to be a landfill site, and even then it attracted butterflies.

That’s because, says Art, “It’s full of exactly the weeds that our native butterflies have adopted as host plants and now rely on.”  Indeed, we soon walk past several different butterfly host plants.

Art spies a butterfly laying eggs.  It’s a non-native Cabbage White.

Art recounts, “This female was flying along the fence, laying eggs on almost every plant of wild radish that she encountered.  And wild radish is a host plant of this butterfly back in Europe.  It’s not native here either.”

The larval form of the Cabbage White is the caterpillar that leaves cabbage patches full of holes.

According to Art, “It’s one of the few butterflies that can be a significant economic pest.”

We soon catch a glimpse of an Anise Swallowtail laying eggs on sweet fennel plants.

“They always will fly between each individual egg laying event,” says Art.  “The plant would not be able to support too many caterpillars.  Also, dense concentration of the caterpillars would attract natural enemies.  So having them widely scattered over the landscape increases the probability of survival.”

You don’t need to be in a protected open space to see butterflies.  Art takes me to a north Berkeley neighborhood where we’re practically greeted by them.

“We have a bunch of host plants, some of which were deliberately planted as ornamentals,” explains Art.  “But they serve as either nectar sources or, in the case of this passion vine, larval host plants for some of our urban fauna.  So these old neighborhoods in Berkeley, particularly in north Berkeley, function as butterfly gardens even though they probably weren’t designed to be butterfly gardens.”

Though we’ve been seeing lots of butterflies, Art says their numbers have been steadily declining in recent years.  He’s working to pinpoint the reasons.  Global warming could be a factor, as well as what Art calls “habitat fragmentation.”

Art says, “Populations turn over all the time.  They go locally extinct.  But if their resources remain, the place gets recolonized by a pregnant female coming in from somewhere else.  But if there’s now a freeway and three subdivisions between this patch and the next occupied patch, the odds of that female finding this patch go way down.”

Even with the decline, and the fact that we came out in the summer, a little past the peak season, I’m impressed with the diversity of butterflies we saw – about twenty species in all.

Art grouses, “It’s pretty good by British standards, but by California standards, it’s a really mediocre day.”

For me, though, it’s been a wonderful day, learning a lot about fascinating creatures I used to simply pass by, and discovering one more thing to look for when I’m out on the backroads.

The peak time to see butterflies in Bay Area wildlands is March through June.  In gardens, the best months are September and October. 

Art Shapiro’s book is called “Field Guide to Butterflies of the San Francisco Bay and Sacramento Valley Regions.”  It’s published by the University of California Press.  He also has a terrific butterfly website:
http://butterfly.ucdavis.edu/

For more information about the places we visited:

Robert Sibley Volcanic Regional Preserve
6800 Skyline Blvd
Oakland, CA
http://www.ebparks.org/parks/sibley

Eastshore State Park
The park includes property along 8.5 miles of shoreline from Oakland to Richmond.  The part we visited is accessible from University Avenue in Berkeley, just west of I-80/580.
http://www.ebparks.org/parks/eastshore

East Bay Regional Park District Headquarters:
1-888-EBPARKS or 1-888-327-2757

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Perfect Picnics

San Francisco native and travel writer, Carole Terwilliger Meyers, gave us insider tips on how to plan the perfect picnic.

First stop by:

Mill Valley Market
12 Corte Madera Ave./Throckmorton Ave.
(415) 388-3222, fax (415) 388-8824
www.millvalleymarket.com
M-Sat 7-7:30, Sun 9-7

Picnic location:

Old Mill Park 
On Throckmorton Ave./Old Mill Rd.
(415) 383-1370
Free

First stop by:

Grégoire 
2109 Cedar St./Shattuck Ave.
(510) 883-1893, fax (510) 883-1894
www.gregoirerestaurant.com 

Picnic location:

Botanical Garden 
200 Centennial Dr.
(510) 643-2755, fax (510) 642-5045
www.botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu 
Daily 9-5; in summer also W-Sun to 8; closed on 1st Tu of month. 
$3, 65+ $2, 3-18 $1; free every Thur.

First stop by:

Draeger’s Market 
Draeger’s Market 
222 E. 4th Ave./B St.
(650) 685-3700
www.draegers.com
Daily 7am-10pm

Picnic location:

Central Park 
El Camino Real/5th Ave.
(650) 522-7434
www.ci.sanmateo.ca.us/dept/parks
Free

First stop by:

Lucca Delicatessen 
2120 Chestnut St./Steiner St.
Marina district
(415) 921-7873, fax (415) 921-2402
www.luccadeli.com 
M-F 9-6:30, Sat-Sun 9-6.  No cards.

Picnic location:

Golden Gate Park
Bounded by Fulton St., Stanyan St., Lincoln Way, and Great Highway
(415) 831-2700, fax (415) 221-8034
http://parks.sfgov.org
Daily dawn-dusk.  Free.

Stow Lake Boathouse 
415) 752-0347. 
Daily 10-4; in summer to 5. 
Paddle & rowboats $13-$17/hr.  No cards.

Wheel Fun Rentals
(415) 668-6699
www.wheelfunrentals.com

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Hakone Gardens

You’d think that something as big as an 18-acre public garden would be hard to miss, especially if it’s just a few minutes from the busy Silicon Valley.  Yet many Bay Area people have never heard about this garden even though it’s almost a century old and it’s a place that might give you a new understanding of yourself.

Just a few miles west of the noisy, hustle and technological bustle of Silicon Valley lies an entire other world of tranquility and peace. 
It’s called Hakone Gardens.  It’s one of the oldest authentic Japanese gardens in the Western hemisphere and is located about 10 miles west of San Jose off Highway 85 just outside of the town of Saratoga.

“I, like many other people here in the Bay Area, did not know that this masterpiece of a jewel existed here,” says Lon Saavedra, CEO and Executive Director of the Hakone Foundation.  According to Lon, it is nearly 90 years old and is considered to be one of the premiere Edo-period gardens outside of Japan.  He says many people feel transformed when they experience the garden. 

Hakone is open to the public seven days a week and for a seven dollar parking donation, you can actually visit four gardens here: the quiet tea garden, the austere Zen garden, the new bamboo garden, and Hakone’s centerpiece, the classic hill and pond garden based on a Japanese garden tradition that’s almost a thousand years old. 

According to Jack Tomlinson, the head gardener at Hakone since 1977, “a really good first-class Japanese garden should have a pond, an island, bridges, waterfalls which then creates that ideal setting that enhances your spiritual progress.”  Jack is the first non-Japanese gardener at Hakone but he considers himself a Japanese gardener.  He studied gardening in Japan to prepare for the job.  He says the peace and harmony of a good Japanese garden can be almost like a spirit guide,

“It’s kind of like an associate, I’m serving it.  I take care of the garden’s needs, and then the garden gives back to so many people.”

You can also find Zen meditation and numerous other classes such as flower arranging here – all part of Hakone’s effort to bridge the cultures of the world.

Hakone was born when a local patron of the arts named Isabel Stine went to the 1915 Pan-Pacific Expo in San Francisco and was struck by the garden she saw at the Japan Pavillion.  She hired a renowned gardener from Kyoto to recreate one on a hillside in Saratoga.

“And they designed Hakone as a genuine, authentic garden and all of the plants you see around us were planted in that 1915-1920 period,” says Lon.

As Hakone took root, Isabel started sharing it with friends and even invited the San Francisco Opera down to perform Madame Butterfly at Hakone in 1924.  But Isabel lost her dream garden in the Depression and a few years later Hakone was almost lost for good during World War II when some Americans sought to destroy anything Japanese.  According to Lon, Hakone Gardens was the only Japanese garden on the west coast that survived World War II.  Hakone was saved again in 1966 when the city of Saratoga bought the garden to keep it away from developers.  And more recently when city money became tight, the Packard Foundation took over and hired Lon to manage it.

“I realized the potential was enormous to raise the visibility and to make it no longer the hidden jewel of the Bay Area,” says Lon.

One of the newer attractions at Hakone doesn’t seem like much until you look a little closer.  Tea plants grow here and once they’re mature, you’ll be able to buy something very rare at the Hakone Gift Shop, tea grown in California made from these very plants.

“Many people don’t know that tea is actually a camellia.  When they drink tea, they’re actually camellia leaves,” explains Jack.

But if you want your tea right now, Hakone also offers visitors a traditional Japanese tea ceremony.  It takes about an hour to experience all the main steps of this elaborate ritual.

With all the cultural and spiritual offerings here, Hakone is a wonderful, calming place to visit and a chance to see and hear a thousand-year old gardening tradition whenever we need it.

For more information about Hakone Gardens visit their website at http://www.hakone.com or call (408) 741-4994.

BKR7259 


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